Just finished these tau.













I tried a few new techniques on these the OSL is a bit hard to see but I'm happy about how it turned out.

Very good work - are you planning on a squad of them?

The colour scheme works really well and the basing is superb (you really get the sense of the tau stalking through destroyed concrete battlefield).

The bright, richly coloured rust works very well against the grey of the base and provides an extra point of interest - shows you've got a good eye!

OSL is a challenging technique and you've made a strong start. Practice the technique and it will get more and more effective. The main principle is often less is more (my eldar exarch was a prime example of too much OSL, until I fixed him).

In the interests of helping you get better: The top of the tau's heads are a little rough. This could be due to sculpt, but I reckon it's probably due to paint thinning. A touch more water (just an extra dip of your brush is enough) will help give you a smoother finish (and tau are all about smooth finish). You may need an extra coat - but it's worth it. The trick is (for me at least) to take some of the paint/liquid off the brush first, otherwise it runs and pools and annoys you and I found myself always using too thick paint instead (and still do sometimes!). But with a bit more thinning you will gain greater paint control.

VERY NICE! The more I look at them the better I like your choice of colors. The bases ROCK! VERY WELL DONE!

the tau look really good i like the green lighting

p.s when r u gonna show your orcs?

Nice. What are the rubble pieces on the bases made of? Cardboard buildings FTW!

yeah kiwi has a tonne of carboard ruins

and icecream box scenery

These guys were really just a few minis I wanted to paint trying a few new things on like not using metallics and trying OSL.

02Laney Thanks, I do try to water down my paints maybe not, the heads may look a bit rough because I tried a lighter dry brush or because of the glue they were coated in when Edward got them, which seems to have dammaged the plastic. I would like to start a tau squad but these are the only models I have and I can't afford more so maybe later...

Deafnala Thanks, that means a lot coming from you.

Edward NEVER those orcs are terrible . That's the only cardboard building, the rest is print out , not great but hopefully good enough untill I can get you making some.

Franzyland The basing is chopped up sprue with matchsticks and pen springs . Yeah cardboard buildings are quick and free.

your orcs are cool
speacially the boss,..who shot my captains arm off with a bow

I like the color scheme... VERY original for Tau. I do not like much the tan or red that people tend to use... and this blue scheme is VERY refreshing!

On the OSL... it is a hard technique, easy to overdo. My suggestion, to add to Laney's comments, is to pick ONE source first... makes easier to work it. For example, take this guy...


Excellent model, GREAT pose. Now, think what you want to convey... remember, this is about tricking the observer. Do you want me (the observer) to focus on the barrel of the gun, the electronic sight, the wrist console or the 'eye'? Sure, I'm looking at your model VERY close (in the photos), but still I got bombarded with all this stuff and the focus got lost. You can simulate light SOURCE (direction) from somewhere else by using the "Gem Technique" and then pic one element to be the source FROM your model.

For example... take these Necron Tomb Spyders. Can you see where the "light" is coming from?


If you guessed from the "top-left corner"... you are WRONG. The eyes of the robots simulate a single point of light, and thus your brain puts the pieces together... then I used lighter colors to get a reflection on the carapace. Here a close-up of the eyes. Notice the different shades of red (from maroon to orange) and the white dots.


Now... the focus I want you (the observer) to have is the barrel of the gun. Subtle... the side barrel seems to glow (actually it does not) because your brain put the light on the OTHER side, and this color is 'too bright' to be on the dark side. The inside of the nuzzle is slightly red... but your brain 'knows' it has to be pitch black, so it automatically assumes (because of the barrel) that there 'must be' something bright inside... the cannon is about to fire a big laser!

You could do the same for your Fire Warrior. The gem technique on the main eye... so it looks 'evil', then slight green on the nuzzle to simulate energy on the inside. I would use the gem technique on the sight (simulates a laser) but then use the wrist console thingy... then the observer will know that thing emits its own light, rather than reflect other.

Here another sample of the gem-technique... it creates the illusion of LOTS of light, which amplifies the Ranger's face. Sorry for the camo. It was my 1st try.


See? Even I painted some fairies at one point! Hope this helps... keep practicing. You are VERY talented, and this thing tests the best of the best. I'm 100% sure you get it in no time!

Really useful information from Mordheimer on the light source, especially the gem advice - that technique is very effective.

Kiwi: It could be either the glue (mostly) or the drybrushing - which would emphasise the rough areas. The paint is much smoother than my initial comments probably suggested and you are getting better and better with each project!

A note on drybrushing: Drybrushing is a really valuable technique to have (and often maligned by 'experts' - who probably feel you should have to spend hours gettign the same effect!). The one thing that limits it however, is the creation of texture - making it really useful for metallic armour e.g. chainmail, fur, skin (with the help of washes), but that reduces the value on smooth surfaces (like tau and space marine armour - though I have seen it used really well on space marines).

Instead you might want to try overbrushing as a similar, but alternative, technique. Overbrushing needs an oldish brush
(or it will waste a good brush). First load the paint on the brush and wipe off the excess (though not as much as the drybrushing). Then gently run the brush over the area to be coated. This should give a smooth cover to the raised areas of the model (you need to reload the brush regularly), leaving shadows in the recesses. Layering is the next step on again and can get very sophisticated. Overbrushing is quick, simple, but not as flexible as layering.

Cheers Laney

Thanks guys

Mordheimer You are totally right about the OSL you should adapt that to a tutorial, very helpful. I'll have to try the jewel technique sometime though my brush may not be small enough for those tiny white dots. Nice Tomb Spyders, but you painted Fairys?!

02Laney Yeah, drybrushing probably was not such a good idea especially with the glue, next time I will try overbrushing.

Kiwi: A fine detail brush will do - just don't overload the brush. Alternatively, I was reading a painting blog by a bloke who uses cocktail sticks for his detail work (not tried it myself yet - might make my eyes less wonky).

The gem technique is great for developing brush control and is the same as that used on space marine eye lenses.

Ta Laney

Cocktail sticks are way too big for detailed painting, the most important thing (besides thinning your paint) is a good brush tip. I paint most of my orks with a size 3 brush. As long as the tip is pointy the size of the brush is not much of a problem.

Kiwi... seriously. Don't judge me man. We all did shameful things in our youth. Some people lived a life of crime, other did drugs... I carry the stigma of painting fairies... for money none the less! The shame... the horror... but I needed the money! I swear I used it to buy milk and diapers for my kids!

Hehehe... I painted LOTS of Eldar (maybe that is the reason I don't like the space fairies that much) for sale. That is how I learned to gem-technique. I will try to make a tutorial.

BTW... You know that the sizes of the brushes go 5 (vehicles), 4, 3, 2 (Basing), 1 (models), 0 (details), 00, 0 3 (same as saying 000), 4 0, etc... for MY details I use a 0 10 brush... and I just got a 0 30 brush! Brushes are your tools... take care of them.

Skrag: a Size 3 brush?!? You are INSANE... or really good. Try keeping a 0 5 brush for details. You will be amazed!

I admit it, for the checkers and the eyes I used a 0 brush, but the rest was done with a size 3. I do have a collection of 0/3 to 0/10 brushes but I rarely use them. Not during summer, when the paint dries so fast...

As long as they are made of good quality natural hair with a fine tip there's no problem. Mostly I use red sable Kolinsky brushes.