here's a WiP of the sniper - need to camo the cloak, but I'm hesistant to do it =) but well, there's always the option of wash, rinse repeat

Really sharp highlights on his armour - ace work!

Always rough with paint jobs - not enough time!

Laney

I'm so afraid of ruining my sniper, that I will delay the guillie-suit for my Ork Kommandoz...

Here's the sniper - and I consider him done for now:





I painted the camo and was like... well - it's ok... and then I washed it and then I was like OMG! I just LOVE Devlan Mud!

I do need some minor details like the scope, but he's ready for the table, and my buddy wants to play against something else than orks... and I do not want to play an unpainted squad...

Yeah that's all I wanted to add: paint the scope and give him eyes. Other than that he looks awesome, especially the base.

Indeed Devlan Mud rocks, I'm pretty sure God washes his models with it, too.

I don't think I would give him eyes; he looks like he is squinting right now and I like it.

You guys put me to shame... well, that is not hard to do! But still your painting is AWESOME!

I agree with you and Arachas... take the model to the NEXT level by painting the scope. It is NOT hard one you so it. Takes 5 mins (actually, 2 mins). Here is my recipe for gem-reflection effect with BLUE TONE (which I think compliment the green scheme nicely!)

1) The trick is painting fast (so the paint is wet) and it blends a little and using small brushes (at least size 000... I personally like 10x0... super tiny!)

2) Select all the colors you want to use beforehand. I suggest Royal Purple, Royal Blue, Ultra Marines Blue, Deep Sky Blue, Baby Blue, White.



Feel free to use whatever colors you have. You need a minimum of 4 colors for this to look right. The larger the object, the more colors and blending you need.

3) Select the 'Light Source' direction. In your case, I would suggest (looking at the model from the barrel of the gun) to be top-right (from top of the shoulder). This way the observer connects the dots... I mean, the source would make the low-left to be darker (shadows) which is what you painted. The scope will add highlights to the WHOLE model. Yes... well, no. The Observer's mind will do that. It is an optical illusion.

4) You are going to paint "crescent moons" with each color. First the base, and then the crescent moons of lighters colors. In this illustration, the light source comes from the TOP-LEFT.



This image has the light coming from the Top-Right, as I suggest you do yours.


5) Paint the whole scope with the darkest color, in this case the Royal Purple.

6) Paint a fairly large crescent moon (little more than half the scope) with the 2nd darkest color (Royal Blue) on the OPPOSITE direction the Light Source. In your case, LOWER-LEFT.

7) Repeat the process with lighter colors, the crescent moon thinner each time.

end up with a SUPER fine line of white if possible. If not, it is OK.

9) Paint a SMALL dot (or two) on the darkest part of the scope, which is where the Light Source is (Top-Right).

10) Enjoy your work. Bitch about now wanting to do it to all your models!


Remember, the critical part is choosing the correct light source. If you do it backwards (the light comes from where the shadows is) the observer will see through the illusion and the model will become crap. The BEST part... if you screw up, just rub off with your finger! Good luck... show me the scope!

I'll se if the little family will let me paint this evening - if - then I'll defenately try this out =)

I've said it before, and I'll probs say it again - this forum / community rocks!

Really convincing camo cloak - devlan mud is ace (you might even call it the new black!).

Rubbish jokes aside - great job and awesome mini-tutorial Mord.

Laney

This is a weekend of firsts! Mordheimer suggested that I tried out decals, and i was - as always ressistant to try something new... but the nagging voice (yes I have a good imagination) of his kept pushing me... So I tried it out, and I'm ... as always... happy I did:

A WiP of one of my leutenants, the decals are not dryed yet, and need washing:

That's it, mine are getting decals, too! ;D

Its amazing what some decals, softener, and satin glaze will do to a model. I have been a big fan of micro sol and micro set for years. As a matter of fact, NONE of my models have any free-hand symbols or numbers.

The decals look ace (as do the models overall). I had some early decal failures (which is why I always freehand). I might need to go back and try them again though - anyone know a good tutorial on the best technique?

Laney