Well here it is: Antenociti's Workshop

I'm just waiting for a few things to come into stock before I get them. Also I need to wait for money to be mine.

Any advice on what static grass is good, as in size, is 2mm too small?

I just checked... they have the Army Painter soft shade for £8.00... GOOD DEAL! I prefer strong shade... but for light colored (clean or bright) models, this is great.

*sniff* So...Proud...

Mordheimer wrote:

This is what I use to Prime... SPRAY AUTO PRIMER It comes in a spray can, is dark grey (or a dull black, depending on light) and the mist is ULTRA fine (makes GW primer feel like you are sand-blasting!) The GW Primer cost $10 a can... the auto primer is $2.50 at any auto-part store (or Walmart!) There are several brands... test on plastic (cheap) models, to see the brand you prefer. I have found them all equally GREAT... but the tone of 'black' may differ. Some people hate that... I'm ultra-practical; I'm painting over it! I have painted BRIGHT models which have been primed black... no problem. There is also brush on primer... but for such effort, I rather use the cheap auto-primer. Arachas is right... if you use regular paint as a base, you model may not chip... or may chip/flake after 10 years... or a week. It is always a mystery. I think the time that take to peel off is inversely proportional to how much you like the paint job. If you finish an award winning model, expect it to flake off overnight. If you think your paint job is so bad that would give a dog (color-blind) explosive diarreah, expect the paint to NEVER come off (not even after soaking for 10 years in Simple Green or even commercial grade brake -fluid... hell, the metal would vanish and you will end up with a paint 'skin'!) Again... the cheap alternative makes NO excuses for not priming. HERE goes another trick... if your model is plastic, you can prime with "Outdoor Plastic Furniture Primer and Paint"... COLOR. Krylon makes the one I like to use... it is 'expensive' (HAHAHAH!!! It is $4 a can!), but the model is primed in color. I primed my Orks green. The result? Shinny 'Goblin Green' models. I then painted the clothes/armor/weapons as normal. The skin? A Wash with green ink (to get muscle definition). When dry, a drybrush of goblin-green (kills the shine) and then a LIGHT brush of scorpion green (for highlights). Imagine... you can paint your Smurfs (sorry... ULTRAMARINES) with that royal blue as prime & base, then paint ink it blue (for a nice new armor finish) or brown (for a dirty used armor look), then the gun (black, drybrush boltgun metal) and you are done! Add a 'super' job by applying decals... you have above table-top models... FROM A SPRAY!!! Always base your models... even if it is simple gravel and few static grass. To seal the models... I use the Vallejo finishes on my good models and spray on the rest. There are THREE 'kinds' of clear coating; Matte, Satin & Gloss. * Matte: The finish result is with no shine... the model seems to look 'white'. Unless you are painting models in snow, avoid this like having sex with Nurgle. Trust me... I cried and THREW away my first models when I saw how the 'clear' coat ruined my first work. If you 'dip' your models (see the Tutorial), they will end up super glossy and shinny... then the Matte Finish is recommended to 'kill' the shine. This is part of that technique (I recommend it to you!!!)... but for 'normal' painting... IT SUCKS!!! * Gloss: Complete opposite... the models will look shinny, wet and... unrealistically cartoonish. There are some uses (like painting mermaid coming out of the water... but generally it SUCKS!!!! How much? So much that when other techniques produce gloss finish, you need to tone it! * Satin: You guess it! It is the middle... not dull, not shiny. It preserves the tones and highlights you painted. If you painted something dull, it will stay dull and so on. You NEED to experiment with brands. The cheap sealer I used from Walmart says Satin, but is as dull as any other brand's Matte. It's Matte is almost white and the Gloss was so shinny that I could increase the amount of light from a candle enough for me to paint 'romantically'! Once you find a brand... stick to it! I use Krylon... expensive at $3.50 (the other one was $1!) Now... you can brush-on the sealer. It takes time... but yields perfect results every time! I use the Vallejo sealers. The bottles have droppers (no drying out paint!) and are great. I have 1 bottle of each kind. You could use the Gloss to seal the power weapon and get that 'glowing' effect. If you combine it with the electrical power technique (Laney's tutorial) the end result is OUT OF THIS WORLD! The cool thing about sealers is that you can combine them. For example, you have soldiers that have walked through mud. The 'cheap' models (not your Officers or master-pieces) you seal with Satin Spray. After they dry, you brush Gloss over the mud boots and base... voilá! Instant fresh mud. You could do that with the mouth of a Warp Entity or a Tyranid. You know... I expect you to pay for my advice in PICTURES! Good luck!

Well I've bought myself a few things and started upon painting a model. So far I'm distinctly disappointed in my lack of miraculously discovered painting skills, and I think I'm going to regret my colour scheme, but hopefully by this time tomorow I will have a painted miniature to show off (yes that means pictures, but only if i can get a family member to lend their camera to me). Though I'm kind of regretting painting this model first cos I really love it and should have waited till I was actually passable at painting, but hey ho, whats done is done.

Thanks for all the advice everyone has given me

Please post pics (new thread!)... we will help you the best we can! There are lots of techniques that we can share to improve your Skills.

Ohhh... and start with simple models!